Thenghu (Coconut Tree)
The coconut tree is much more than just a plant; it's a pillar of the culture and economy. It's often called the "Kalpavriksham," meaning the "Tree of Heaven," due to its versatile and abundant uses. In Kerala, people use every part of the coconut tree. Coconut is used in almost every dish, both savoury and sweet. From curries and stews to desserts like payasam and appam, coconut milk, grated flesh, and oil add texture, richness, and flavour. Tender coconut is a refreshing drink loved for its coolness and sweetness. The trunks are used for beams and poles in traditional houses, offering strength and durability. Leaves are used to hatch roofs, temporary shelters, fences, and walls, providing natural insulation and sustainable building materials. Also, leaves are woven into intricate baskets, hats, and decorative items, adding an artistic touch to everyday life.
The coir, the Fibrous husk of the coconut used to make ropes, mats, doormats, brushes, and other household items. Coconut shell is Carved into bowls, spoons, ladles, cups, and even musical instruments, showcasing exquisite craftsmanship. Coconut oil is used for cooking, hair care, and lighting, a versatile and natural product. Dried leaves and bark are used as firewood. Coconuts are a symbol of prosperity and good luck, often offered in temples and rituals. Traditional healers use coconut for various ailments, from skin conditions to digestion problems. The sweet sap can be used to make palm sugar. Or, left to ferment, it can be transformed into a special, mildly alcoholic brew called toddy. Alappuzha is the name of this coastal town in India, and there we can find the most authentic Kerala Toddy Shop Cuisine.
Kallu (Toddy)
Early each morning almost exactly as they have been doing for hundreds of years nearly 30,000 toddy tappers across the state risk their lives to clamber up coconut trees. Toddy tapper, who has the tools of his trade strapped around his body. A black jug is slung around his back and a couple of knives and a large bone are tied around the waist. he climbs a tree with a Coir rope tied around the trunk of the coconut palm to serve as footholds. Right near the top, he slits open a bud of the palm flower. He then hammers on the stalk with the bone to make the liquid ooze out while attaching a pot to it. The vessel is left overnight on the tree for the morning collection, which is about around 600 ml from a single bud. Tapper then turns his attention to the pots he had left behind the previous day, sometimes they walk from treetop to treetop on crude tightropes in search of budding flower stalks. They slice these stalks open and use terracotta pots to catch the milky liquid that oozes out, fill that liquid in his black jug and climb down.
The life of a toddy tapper is full of risks. He operates without safety nets and has no protection from hazards such as wasp attacks. The sweetness of the sap attracts many insects: We can find ants swirling in the portion liquid when fetched. This milky liquid is sweet and refreshing.This drink is completely natural, you can even drink it straight from the collecting vessel. Toddy carries huge amounts of healthy bacteria and significantly boosts digestive health for those who drink (moderate amounts) regularly. The morning sap turns sour and potent by noon The non-alcoholic version is called Neera often called sweet toddy. Which almost immediately begins to ferment, thanks to natural yeasts in the air. the coconut toddy may be reaching an alcohol content of 3-4% ABV—this whitish beverage with a sweet alcoholic taste and a very short shelf life of only one day. The sap is not heated and the wine is an excellent substrate for microbial growth. It is therefore essential that proper hygienic collection procedures are followed to prevent contaminating bacteria from competing with the yeast and producing acid instead of alcohol. The product should be kept in a cool place away from direct sunlight.
Every day, the tappers load up their caravans, vans and trucks and rush their pots full of sap to thousands of toddy shops s, where day laborers and employees, local families and tourists gather to experience what a Keralan friend describes as "the true, original taste of Kerala."
The locals will confirm which are the best Toddy shops around, both in terms of food and drink. You can rely on Auto rickshaw drivers for information. While a couple of these restaurants were established in proper houses and even had separate rooms for family lunching or dining, the most authentic Toddy shops were shacks built from scraps in the middle of nowhere with fundamental amenities and decor. Some places sell Toddy by glass, but by default, it comes to the table in a one-litre clay or plastic jug. a strainer is provided so small particles of palm chips get eliminated when pouring it into a glass. Now there are several versions of the coconut toddy itself. Flavours such as grapes, pineapple, Ginger etc. The serving and drinking vessels are important as hygiene is a key to quality toddy. You’ll keep your glass for the entire meal :).
Kallu Shappu Vibavangal (Toddy shop Menu)
Usually in toddy shops side dishes are prepared in two ways either fried/roasted or in a thick gravy. Egg, Fish, seafood, Beef, Chicken, Rabbit, Duck, Pork and Mutton are available and in toddy shops, they use ingredients such as Coconut, Onion, Tomato, Garlic, Green chilli, Red Chilli, Ginger garlic paste, Red chilli powder Coriander powder, Turmeric powder, Salt Garam masala, Curry leaves, Coconut Oil 2.5, Coriander leaves, Lemon Main dishes are also available such as Rice, Puttu, Chapathy, Appam, The most popular dish is fish curry,
Kappapuzhugiyathum Meenkariyum (Tapioca with fish curry)
This is a red curry with big chunks of fish or small fish like Sardine, or Indian mackerel in it. This is the signature dish in every toddy shop to eat with toddy. When pairing this fiery dish with sweet toddy, fish is the choice of local recipe. Kerala’s toddy shop chefs usually prefer Sardine, Indian mackerel, Trevally, Mullet fish, Kingfish and Shark. Slow-cooked four several hours in a curry recipe. Simmering in a dark red rich coconut-milk curry broth. the key to the red colour is Kashmiri chilli powder. fistful of fresh curry leaves, garlic, and chillies, and finally, a unique ingredient called Kudampuli adds a backing of sour flavour (Garcinia cambogia is commonly known as Malabar Tamarind) This curry is served along Kappa (Tapioca) which is boiled with turmeric
Karimeen Pollichathu
Pearl Spot fish
Malayalee's, the indigenes of Kerala, are famous for their love of fish when it comes to their cuisine. And the delectable dish called Karimeen Pollichathu. This star food of Kerala mainly involves broiling Karimeen fish marinated with a rich blend of spices and then wrapped inside green banana leaves. The result is a dish so deliciously soft and flaky that it oozes out its spicy juices when opened up.
Karimeen is also called the pearl spot fish. It is not a sea fish (saltwater fish), nor is it a river fish; in fact, it is a little bit of both as Karimeen is found mainly in the backwaters of Kerala. This hardy fish is available throughout the year in both Kerala as well as Sri Lanka with no special season attached to it. The backwaters of the Ashtamudi Lake are a favourable breeding location for this fish. What could be better than a houseboat cruise paired up with a heavenly meal onboard of Karimeen Pollichathu made from freshly caught karimeens from the lake? In fact, you can even assist in catching your dinner! A treat for both the eyes as well as the taste buds. Holidays couldn’t get any better than this in Kerala!
The pearl spotfish has been honoured with the title of being the State fish of Kerala and is a favourite of both the Keralites as well as tourists visiting Kerala. Its body is covered with black-coloured scales, hence the name Karimeen, which means ‘black fish’ in the local Malayalam language. Its body is oval and laterally compressed with eight transverse light-coloured bands on the body as well as a few irregular black spots on its abdomen. This fish is a little on the expensive side and isn’t always affordable by the common man.
Tharavu Curry (Duck Curry)
Duck Curry
Tharavu curry, or duck curry, is a traditional Kerala dish that is often served during special occasions and festivals. It is a rich and flavourful dish that is made with duck meat, coconut milk, spices, and herbs. The duck meat is first marinated in a mixture of spices, including turmeric powder, coriander powder, chilli powder, garam masala, and salt. The marinated duck is then cooked in coconut milk with onions, ginger, garlic, and tomatoes. The curry is simmered for a long time until the duck is tender and the flavours have melded together.
Chemeen Roast (Prawan Roast)
Prawn Roast
Chemmeen roast, or Kerala-style prawn roast, is a delightful dish bursting with vibrant flavours and textures. It's a signature dish in Kerala cuisine, beloved for its aromatic spices, caramelized onions, and perfectly crisp prawns. Usually chefs uses small or medium size prawns
Koonthal Roast (Squid Roast)
Squid Roast
Koonthal roast, also known as squid roast or kanava roast, is made with squid, which is a type of cephalopod mollusk. The squid is cleaned and cut into rings or strips, then cooked in a mixture of spices and coconut milk until tender and flavourful. A 3-ounce serving of koonthal roast provides about 250 calories, 15 grams of protein, 20 grams of carbohydrates, and 15 grams of fat.
Kakka Roast (Clam Roast)
Clam Roast
Kakka roast, or clam roast, is made with clams, which are a type of shellfish found on backwaters. The clams are cleaned and cooked in a mixture of spices and coconut milk until tender and flavourful.
Njhandu Fry (Crab Fry)
Crab Roast
Njhandu fry, or crab fry, is made with crabs, which are a type of crustacean. The crabs are cleaned and cooked in a mixture of spices until tender and flavorful. A 3-ounce serving of njhandu fry provides about 250 calories, 20 grams of protein, 20 grams of carbohydrates, and 15 grams of fat
Kallumakkaya roast (Mussels Roast)
Mussels Roast
Kallumakkaya roast, or mussels roast, is made with mussels, which are a type of bivalve mollusk. The mussels are cooked in a mixture of spices and coconut milk until tender and flavourful. A 3-ounce serving of kallumakkaya roast provides about 200 calories, 15 grams of protein, 20 grams of carbohydrates, and 10 grams of fat.
Nadan Kozhi – (Country Chicken)
County Chicken Curry
Nadan kozhi curry, or Kerala-style country chicken curry, is made with country chicken (Not broiler chicken), coconut milk, and a variety of spices. The chicken is cooked in a thick, flavourful sauce until tender and juicy.
Kaada Fry – (black quail)
Quail fry
Kaada fry, or quail fry, is made with quail, which is a small, game bird. The quail is marinated in a mixture of spices and then fried until golden brown.
Panni Fry – (Pork Fry)
Pork Fry
Panni fry, or pork fry, is a popular dish in Kerala cuisine. It is made with pork, which is a type of meat that is often used in Kerala dishes. The pork is cooked in a mixture of spices until tender and flavourful.
Muyal Fry– (Rabbit Fry)
Rabbit Fry
Muyal fry, or rabbit fry, is made with rabbit, which is a type of meat that is often used in Kerala dishes. The rabbit is cooked in a mixture of spices until tender and flavourful.
Pothirachi – (Beef fry)
Beef Fry
Pothu erachy fry, or beef fry, is a popular dish in Kerala cuisine. It is made with beef, The beef is cooked in a mixture of spices until tender and flavourful.
Appam – a type of pancake made of fermented rice batter and coconut milk. It is similar to idly and does not have much of flavour on its own, but soaks up sauce or curry well and is perfect with duck or mutton curry.
Appam
Appam
A type of pancake made of fermented rice batter and coconut milk. It is similar to idly and does not have much of flavour on its own, but soaks up sauce or curry well and is perfect with duck or mutton curry.
Puttu
Puttu
Rice bread that serves as a sponge to soak up curries. Puttus are made of ground roasted rice dough, that is rolled into small logs and then steamed. The logs are then cut into cylinder-shaped pieces and dabbed with freshly grated coconut at both ends. Traditionally Puttus are eaten for breakfast with chickpea curry or banana, but they make a good accompaniment to meat curries too.
For over two decades, Kerala has been keeping shut the liquor outlets owned by the State Beverages Corporation, bars and toddy parlours on the first day of every month because it is the salary day. The move was based on a humanitarian concern that people shouldn't have the opportunity to spend their salary on booze the day they are paid. Toddy shops are open from 8 AM to 8 PM. The best time to visit a Toddy shop is around lunchtime when all the food options are available but it is also a crowded time. However, if you are not very particular about the food, you can come in later in the day or even for late dinner. The servings of food are medium-sized, but along with the side dish, it should be enough for a light eater. If you are not a native keep in mind all these dishes are so hot and spicy but along with toddy will balance your taste buds. Foods are prepared here in large batches so you can't order asking to cook in less spicy. Don’t expect cutlery to be provided in most shops. Roll up your sleeves and use your fingers. :)
List of toddy shops